What’s the difference between physical and chemical exfoliants?
What should I expect before, during, and after a professional exfoliation treatment?
While exfoliation is recommended for almost every skin condition, there are times when you shouldn’t exfoliate.
ACNE IN ADULTS
What’s causing my spots or breakouts?
Does toothpaste really dry breakouts?
I have an oily skin type. Why do I need a moisturiser?
I have a spot or breakout and want to get rid of it quickly. What can I do?
What’s the difference between a whitehead and a blackhead?
Does tanning help clear oily skin and breakouts?
AGEING OF THE SKIN
DRYNESS OF THE SKIN
What’s the difference between dry skin and dehydrated skin?
Why am I experiencing sensitivity and dryness?
Can low/no-fat diets contribute to having dry skin?
I’ve never had dry skin before. Why do I have it now?
OILINESS OF THE SKIN
Why is my skin oily?
Can exfoliation help control my oily skin?
Does oily skin mean I could start experiencing breakouts?
Will I “grow out” of my oily skin?
I tan to help clear my oily skin. Is this ok?
A: Both physical and chemical exfoliants work to remove dulling surface cells for a brighter, smoother surface.
Physical exfoliants use friction together with grains or particles to mechanically remove dead skin cells. This can be achieved through a brush or gentle abrasive ingredients such as Corn Cob Meal, Rice Bran or Oatmeal. Depending on the amount of friction or massage over the skin and the nature of the abrasive, results may vary. Steer clear of scrubs made from ground-up fruit pits or nut shells, which actually scratch and irritate skin.
Chemical exfoliants smooth skin by dissolving the intercellular “glue” surrounding the skin cells. Chemical exfoliants can also dissolve the cornified cell. Hydroxy acids like Lactic and Salicylic Acid, Retinol, and enzymes are a few examples of chemical exfoliants.
A: SKINICIAN’S Professional exfoliation treatments are a great way to resurface, smooth, and brighten skin. They can help diminish the appearance of fine lines and hyperpigmentation.
Before: Professional exfoliation treatments will begin with a professional double cleansing to remove all traces of oil, make-up and debris.
During: Based upon the results of your SKINICIAN analysis, your professional skin therapist will choose chemical or physical exfoliants, or both, to deliver the desired result. If you experience any discomfort during the treatment, alert your professional skin therapist immediately. Professional exfoliation uses stronger higher activity products, so some tingling is often expected.
After: Exfoliation, especially exfoliation with hydroxy acids, may increase your sensitivity to the sun. For this reason, we recommend use of SPF for at least 7 days after any Hydroxy Acid treatment.
Your SKINICIAN professional skin therapist will also prescribe an at-home regimen to help you maintain the results.
Q: When shouldn’t I exfoliate?
Skin that has been recently sunburned or waxed should not be exfoliated. Never exfoliate over open wounds or cuts.
If you have a sensitised skin condition, exfoliation may further compromise your skin’s natural protective barrier. It is important to follow the advice of your skin therapist when exfoliation is a part of your professional treatment and home care regime.
If you are experiencing ongoing skin breakouts, contact a SKINICIAN Professional Skin Therapist for advice.
ACNE IN ADULTS
A: There are many causes behind the formation of spots and breakouts.
Stress, excess oil, excess skin cells, bacteria, hormonal fluctuations, and genetics are all factors that can contribute to acne.
Working with your professional skin therapist, you can help control the factors that contribute to acne. Through your SKINICIAN analysis and professional treatment and prescription, your professional skin therapist can help regulate sebaceous glands, promote exfoliation to help shed skin cells to prevent clogging of the follicle, kill acne-causing bacteria, reduce stress, and help soothe inflammation associated with breakouts.
return to top
Q: Does toothpaste really dry breakouts?
A: No. New information actually reveals that toothpaste can stimulate breakouts on your chin and around the mouth. Dermatologists say that heavily flavoured toothpaste, or toothpaste with high levels of fluoride, can cause breakouts to arise.
return to top
A: Moisturisers are vital to every skin care regimen, regardless of skin condition.
An oily skin can be dehydrated, and will need hydration from a moisturizer: this is because dehydration is a lack of water in the skin layers, not a lack of oil. The activity of oil glands can still be normal, or even overactive, in a dehydrated skin. Often times, dehydration in an oily skin can also lead to higher production of oil, so keeping skin hydrated with an oil-free moisturiser can help control overactive sebaceous glands.
A: If you can, quickly make an appointment with your professional skin therapist, who can determine if your breakout is a blackhead, and can subsequently extract it. If you have a non-blackhead breakout, your professional skin therapist can treat it with professional treatment room tools.
Don’t pick or squeeze as this will only cause more inflammation making your breakout more visible. Cleanse affected area and apply SKINICIAN Purifying Mask, this will absorb excess oils and promote healing. Once the mask is removed, follow with the SKINICIAN Advanced Calming Serum to reduce swelling redness and pain.
A: Whiteheads and blackheads are considered non-inflammatory lesions.
A blackhead is a clogged follicle opening containing oil and dead cells.
Second, blackheads are not a sign of dirty, or unclean, skin. Blackheads are blocked follicles that have an opening to the skin’s surface, making them exposed to air, triggering oxidisation which makes it change in colour.
A whitehead, also known as a closed comedone, is not open and has barely any or no exposure to air. Because air cannot reach the follicle, the debris inside the pore does not oxidize and change colour.
return to top
A: Sunbathing is never good for the skin. Bathing in the sun to clear breakouts can worsen breakouts and intensify your chances of long-term scarring and hyper pigmentation / dark spots. They may clear momentarily, due to a slight drying of the skin, however this is only temporary as the skin will produce more oil to compensate, possible leading to more breakouts later.
AGEING OF THE SKIN
A: 90% of skin ageing is completely within our control, so the appearance and signs of skin ageing can be minimised, and further skin ageing can be controlled. New scientific research has uncovered ingredients that work on a biochemical level to control skin ageing, minimising current signs of skin ageing and in some cases reverse both chronological and photo induced ageing. Some of these ingredients include antioxidant vitamins C and E, Glucosamine, peptides, Lactic Acid, Retinyl Palmitate, and of course, daily use of an SPF. Speak with your SKINICIAN professional skin therapist about a customised regime to help control the signs of skin ageing.
A: Free radicals are responsible for skin ageing in the form of wrinkles, breakdown in collagen and elastin, and inflammation.
Also known as Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS), free radicals are highly reactive, unstable molecules that attack and steal from stable molecules.
Unstable means the free radicals don’t have an even number of electrons, and are constantly in search of an extra electron to steal to become stable. For every free radical that “steals” from a stable molecule, another free radical is formed, causing a cascade of free radical formation.
Fortunately, antioxidants (Vitamins C and E) can help stop the free radical cascade and control this trigger of skin ageing.
A: Collagen is a protein produced in the body that connects, supports, and helps give firmness and strength to the body’s tissues.
By the time we are about 30 years old, we will start to lose 1% of collagen with each subsequent birthday. Collagen production slows as we age, which impacts the skin’s ability to repair itself, triggering a loss of elasticity.
Because of collagen’s role in firmer, taut skin, many skin ageing products include ingredients that help stimulate collagen production.
DRYNESS OF THE SKIN
A: Dry skin refers to skin that’s lacking in oil. Dehydrated skin is characterized by a lack of moisture in the Stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis.
Traditionally, the Stratum corneum cells are about 10% water. Anything below that is classified as a dehydrated skin condition.
Because dehydration is a lack of water in skin, dehydration can even be experienced by those with oily skin. Whether you’re suffering from dryness or dehydration, your SKINICIAN professional skin therapist can prescribe a regimen to help keep skin healthy.
A: The natural process of ageing, environment, and lifestyle choices can impact your skin’s level of dryness.
As we age, the activity of sebaceous (oil) glands begins to slow. Ageing may also cause blood flow to skin to decrease, causing a drop in oil production, or you could even be suffering form dehydration.
Cold winds and cold temperatures can dry out skin, which is why you may notice “seasonal” dryness. This also applies to air conditioning and forced air heating. Warm, dry air acts like a sponge, soaking up moisture from everything it touches.
Prolonged exposure to sun can also cause water evaporation from skin and contribute to dryness.
OILINESS OF THE SKIN
A: One word: genetics
Because you are genetically programmed to have larger and more productive sebaceous (oil) glands.
A: Exfoliation can be especially helpful to those with oily skin.
In addition to smoothing, improving skin tone and enhancing skin’s receptiveness of oil-controlling ingredients, exfoliation helps rid oily skin of dulling skin cells to help keep skin clear.
A: Not necessarily. While oily skin is a precursor to the cascade of events that lead to breakouts, it doesn’t mean that you will start experiencing breakouts.
A: Generally as you get older the oil glands shrink and produce less oil, so yes, your skin may become less oily.
A: Absolutely not. Sun exposure is never good for skin.
While it may seem the sun provides a temporary “drying” effect, sebaceous glands will fire into overdrive to help replace lost oil. The result: more oil on the surface than before. Following a prescribed regime that helps control oil production will help minimise your risk for breakouts.
A: Sensitised skin exhibits the same symptoms and triggers as sensitive skin.
Sensitised skin can affect anyone of any age, skin condition and any race, and occurs when the skins barrier has been damaged. People with genetically sensitive skin tend to have a fair skin with a fine skin texture. The skin struggles to produce its natural protective barrier.
A: Environmental factors, ageing and lifestyle choices can all increase skin sensitisation.
Cold winds and low temperatures, sun exposure, pollution, and chemical exposure in cleaning and household products can irritate and dry out skin, depriving it of lipids and moisture between cells that keep the protective layer of the skin intact. Without these substances, skin is left unprotected from bacteria and irritant invasion and moisture is drawn out.
As we age, cell turnover and renewal times slow, which has a knock on effect on barrier formation (the lipid bi layer that protects us from the environment). Reduced barrier formation leaves this skin vulnerable to irritants.
Low-fat, no-fat diets can deprive our bodies of skin-friendly Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs) that help protect against water loss within cells and can even help prevent dryness (remember, dryness is a precursor to sensitised skin).
Over-cleansing, over-exfoliation or shaving without a protective medium can also weaken skin’s barrier function, leading to skin sensitisation.
If you’ve recently switched skin care or make-up products, take note: they could contain artificial fragrances and colours known to aggravate and increase skin sensitisation. Speak with your SKINICIAN professional skin therapist to find out if your current regime is causing your sensitivity.
A: Only your professional skin therapist can determine if exfoliation is right for your skin condition through a SKINICIAN analysis.
More than likely, gentle exfoliation will be beneficial to the health of skin.
A: Rosacea is reddened patches; or small or thick bumps on the skin.
It’s believed that rosacea is caused by an underlying genetic condition involving an over active vascular and immune response; however, the medical community remains unsure of its cause. Rosacea first shows on skin as reddened areas that come and go when a stimulus is present, but can progress into a permanently red condition with possible pimples and breakouts.
Only a skin care professional can tell you if you have rosacea, or are suffering with skin sensitivity/sensitisation. However, there are steps you can take to help control flare-ups. Take note of what stimulates flare-ups (extreme weather, stress, strenuous exercise, alcohol, and some foods).
Stay away from products with artificial fragrances or colours and wear sunscreen anytime skin is exposed to daylight. Also keep alcohol consumption to a minimum and don’t over-cleanse or excessively scrub skin.